at least 12S NiMH for the car, and ideally 14S plus 18 VDC drill charger for NiCd (15S) (current charger is dead) This is my first "real" charger and to justify the price point, it had to become not just an r/c charger, but a general purpose charger. ![]() I did not look at that particular charger because I needed other features. You should have looked into the team checkpoint charger it's like the duratrax ICE but discharges up to 30 amps where as the ICE only can discharge up to 10 and this is not good enough for battery packs that are used in our RC cars. Hi you could do a total dischare let them cool down and re charge and see how much MHA gets put in them i believe the cut off for 6 cells is 5.9v But, run time and voltage-under-load measurements will be fine. The ever-changing value of the discharge current through the bulbs as the pack voltage drops will not allow to you to calculate the capacity of the packs. If you're looking to work out actual capacity numbers for your cells, constant-current discharging is amust though. ![]() It's not a constant-current discharge, like the CBA would give you, but that's OK since you're only interested in seeing if the changes you make improve run time. Just monitor the discharge carefully and stop it at the desired cutoff, let's say, 0.9V/cell. You could use the test stand to run the packs down in the car but why subject the car to additional wear when you don't have to? 12V automotive light bulbs can do a great discharge for you by paralleling as many as you need, even including switches to add/remove bulbs from the load. You're only looking at changes in these pack's run times and voltage-under-load, not comparing performance to another pack. ![]() You just need a good, repeatable test that you can go back to as you make changes. Since you're not comparing your packs to other published curves, you don't need to replicate any other test setup or even have "real" data. With no real load, is this a viable approach for any kind of realistic data ?Ī CBA would be your best bet but you can make do with using light bulbs or a large power resistor. In another hobby forum I frequent (flashlights), a suggestion was made to just put the car on a stand and run it, just capturing voltage off of a DVM as the car runs. I have seen CBA discharge curves, but don't own one. I just ordered a triton 2 charger which has some discharge capability, but not enough to really test the packs. (example - also ordered some astro zero loss connectors to replace the tamiya plugs) ![]() I am trying to estimate the run time of various improvements we are making, and get a more realistic C rating of the cells. Many of the NiMH packs and cells do not have discharge curves published - I assume because they are just commodity cells and unbalanced packs. (the car uses both in series) I debated purchasing more sophisticated packs (balanced / each cell tested) but this is step one for us. Just to be on the conservative side, I decided to stay with NiMH packs - ordered 2 each 6S1P NiMH Elite brand 5000 mah upgraded packs from. This is to keep him busy driving around, not really racing. The intention is to set it up more for run time than performance. I picked up an older, largely stock (Novak 3014 ESC/ 14.4v E MAXX truck for my son. Hi, This is sort of an r/c electric car battery question - hope this is the right place.
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